Day 10 - Another remarkable day

I am sitting sipping a wee dram of Talisker 10 year old whiskey and trying to remember what we did today.

We had another wonderful breakfast and climbed aboard the bus. It was foggy and wet but Barney assured us that it might or might not clear up.

Our first stop was Neist Point. This is the most westerly point on the Isle of Skye and it reportedly has views of magnificent cliffs but today we walked down a lot of stairs and ramps and saw, well, not much of anything. It was too foggy. We didn't go all the way to the lighthouse as there would be no visibilit





We then visited a "black house". This is a replica of what my great great great grandparents likely would have lived in. There was a peat fire smoldering inside and now my coat smells like either peat smoke or a very good whiskey.


Next we passed through the town where Giant McCaskill was born. We saw the town on Cape Breton Island where he died.


Our next stop was Dun Beag. This is a well preserved ruins of a prehistoric building. In this case built by the original native people the Picts. The whole area is somewhat like our tundra and very wet. The question is why here?





Next stop was at Glen Conon (Fairy Glen). The hills were believed to be fairy homes and the bluff a fairy castle (Castle Ewen) It certainly had an other worldness about it. The ridges on the sides of the hills are from centuries of sheep traversing them.











Sheep and highland coos are a constant obstacle on the single lane roads.



Lunch was at Dunvegan castle but it is a castle that has been constantly updated and there is a £7 charge just to get to where you can see it so we had a quiet lunch and passed on the castle.

The first sight in the afternoon was the Quiraing (same name as the B&B we are in). This is a very impressive rock face. the bus driver drove up a single lane road to the top of a neighbouring mountain where we had some of the most incredible views that we have ever seen.













Next stop was Kilt Rock. So named because the rock face looks like the pleats of a kilt.





We were very lucky because shortly after these vistas the weather closed in again and visibility was again reduced to almost nil. We could see the bank of mist and rain rolling towards us.

Supper in Portree was a simple meal in a reataurant on the harbour. Very good fish skink (chowder), mussels, salmon and sole.









After supper we headed back to our room at the Quiriang Guest House where I opened my tiny bottle of Talisker 10 year old whiskey. It is flavoured with peat smoke and reminds me of the black house. It is also considered one of the ten best whiskies to buy and I now know why.

Slainte!


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Location:Portree, Isle of Skye

Day 9 - Where do I start

We woke to a gorgeous sunrise and headed down to a simple breakfast of scrambled eggs and bacon topped off with two perfect scones. We are unexpectadly loving British cuisine.

A quick bus trip to the Royal Mile and we were boarding a Rabbies tour bus. Barney, our driver, has a great sense of humour and a history degree so we are in good hands.



The whole day was a series of perfectly timed stops. We headed out of Edinburgh with a running commentary about how inept the Scotish government is when it comes to building projects.

Our first stop was a photo op at Stirling Castle. Mary Queen of Scots was crowned here and because the Stirling Bridge was the farthest downstream crossing of the River Forth it was very strategic and has been under seige at least 8 times.



Barney pointed out some Highland cows. Sheep are prevalent in the Highlands but there are only a few Coos.



We drove by Doune Castle which is most famous because it was controled by the French and when the British surrounded it a French soldier shouted "I fart in your general direction." and "Those aren't horses they're just coconuts".



Next stop was Calander where we had the best ever meat pies. Debbie had steak and haggis and being more conservative I had a steak pie. I tasted hers and it was delicious too.

Shortly after Calander we got our first sight of the highlands and we stopped at Glencoe. We learned that the history where the Campbels massacred the McDonalds was, in fact,wrong. It was really government troops that did the dastardly deed. Massacres aside, it is a beautiful spot.






We stopped briefly at Inverlochy Castle. Although a ruin it is one of a very few castles to survive the wars of independance (1296 -1397) making it one of the oldest in Scotland. It was also a good spot to get photos of Ben Nevis which is the highest peak in the British Isles.






We stopped in Fort William for a so-so lunch but chosem for it's location on the waterfront. From there we headed up the Great Glen (valley)and across towards the Isle of Skye with a brief stop to photograph Eileene Donnan Castle which was used in the "Highlander" film and 17 others. It is a beautiful castle surrounded by water.





From here it was a quick run across the Skye Bridge and up to Portree. We settled into a great B&B (Quiraing Guest House) and headed into town for another fantastic dinner. Smoked salmon, mussels, salmon for Debbie and sea bass for me followed by a delicious strawberry and shortbread dessert.



The only downside of the day was when I found out that we won't be going to the Talisker Distillery and that their 18year old whiskey is completely sold out. Where will I find a good "uisge beatha". I will sit here sipping my 12 year old Edinburgh Castle single malt whisky and contemplate it.












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Location:Portree, Isle of Skye

Day 8 - Brief update

We had another over the top amazing day. We had a good but unremarkable breakfast. The highlight was Jill ( our host) who slipped us an extra scone each but told us not to tell her husband, who bakes them.

After breakfast we headed to Edinburgh castle and spent almost four hours walking around inside, and I'm not sure we saw everything. We were standing looking down on the one o'clock gun when it went off.













From there we walked about half way down the Royal Mile and then back up to the Witchery for a 3:00 dinner. With tip it was £130 for a very delicious three course meal in exquisit surroundings.















We walked from there down the Royal Mile to Holyrood Palace but it was closed when we got there. We debated hiking over Arthur's Seat to our B&B but not for long. We were exhausted.






We hiked back up the street to North Bridge where we caught a bus back to our B&B. When we got back Doud was taking scones out of the oven. We told him how much we loved them and how good they smelled. Shortly after we got in our room he was at the door with two still steaming scones and they were delicious.






Tomorrow we hop a Rabbie Tours bus and head to the Isle of Skye. Home of Talisker single malt whiskey.

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Location:Edinburgh

Day 7- Today we enter Scotland

We had another breakfast of that fantastic bacon with a cheese omlette. We said our goodbyes to Geoff and Christine and Ashcroft Guest House. We investigated a wonderful old church and then wandered through town to the train station. We are currently on a local train somewhere between Haltwhistle and Carlisle.

























We are in Edinburgh!






We came out of Waverley Station and I led us to precisely where my iPad said our bus stop was. No bus stop. As it turned out we were in the correct place, only the stop was on a bridge about a hundred feet directly above us and the only way to get to it was to walk all the way around massive Waverley train station. Gotta love the ipad gps! Once we found the bus, finding our B&B was easy.

The rate that got us first class luxury in Haltwhistle gets us a small much lower standard room in the big city. It is clean, secure and has furniture that almost matches. On a brighter note it is run by a very friendly little Scottish woman, there is a tray of tablet (kind of a shortbread fudge) in the hall and a view of Arthur's Seat from our window.













We are off to supper.

I had me first pint of Scottish ale in an old Edinburgh pub tonight. We went to the Old Bell Inn and had a fantastic meal. Almost as good as the McEwans ale was the sticky toffee pudding. It wasn't as good as the same stickey pudding and custard at Mile Castle last night but it was close. Can't have that every night or we will burst at the seams before we get home! The pub was busier than this image makes it look. I just took advantage of a lull.



Time for bed because we spend tomorrow discovering Edinburgh. I can't wait. I am like a kid on Christmas Eve wondering what tomorrow will bring.

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Location:Edinburgh